Detalhes bibliográficos
| Ano de defesa: |
2022 |
| Autor(a) principal: |
Rufino, Carina Borges
 |
| Orientador(a): |
Casadei, Eliza Bachega |
| Banca de defesa: |
Hoff, Tânia Márcia Cezar,
Carrascoza, João Luiz Anzanello,
Bonadio, Maria Claudia,
Vicentini, Cláudia Regina Garcia |
| Tipo de documento: |
Tese
|
| Tipo de acesso: |
Acesso aberto |
| Idioma: |
por |
| Instituição de defesa: |
Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing
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| Programa de Pós-Graduação: |
Programa de Doutorado em Comunicação e Práticas de Consumo
|
| Departamento: |
ESPM::Pós-Graduação Stricto Sensu
|
| País: |
Brasil
|
| Palavras-chave em Português: |
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| Palavras-chave em Inglês: |
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| Área do conhecimento CNPq: |
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| Link de acesso: |
http://tede2.espm.br/handle/tede/619
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Resumo: |
The idea that certain pieces of clothing are meant for women, while others are restricted to the usage by men, is a social construct dated from Modernity, and it has been explored until today, in contemporary society. However, over the last few years, there have been spreading dressing practices that appeared as means of challenging and questioning the conservative structures of clothing, such as agender fashion and its concept of neutralizing rigid and binary dressing codes. This thesis main subject of study are the discourse strategies related to the consumption of agender fashion in contemporary society, considering the disputes of meaning present in the communication strategy of fashion labels. As of yet an undefined and disputed field, the establishment of agender fashion has come to light via discourse, through an interdiscursive relationship with other subjects. Using this concept, this thesis seeks to understand how the discourse disputes around agender fashion take place in the communication arena of labels Beira, Cë and Handred, which make wide use of it. The analysis is based upon an empirical perspective from the Internet, especially the Instagram social network, employed by the brands as their major communication tool and as a way of showcasing their production processes. This research uses the French line of discourse analysis as a theoretical-methodological framework, through the works of Maingueneau (1997, 2008, 2015), in the context of communication and consumerism studies, and in dialogue with these areas of study. Throughout this thesis, a few discourse strategies used in the communication efforts of labels Beira, Cë and Handred are discussed, employing the following interdiscursive angles: the discourse of the Other; brand activism; small-company entrepreneurship; hybrid masculinities in the agender fashion consumption. It is therefore perceived that agender fashion, although a dressing practice not fully understood yet, and filled with contradictions, which configuration is still evolving and in dispute, enables, via discourse, the development of other meanings to fashion, meanwhile working as a tool for other forms of subjectivity and sense of belonging, related to more subversive and challenging ideals.In this scenario, communication acts as the element that enables the intercrossing of the types of discourse involved in the establishment of agender fashion, creating relationships on the basis of dialogue, solidarity or dispute in the process of defining this fashion practice and valuing its forms of consumption. |
