Mulheres de saia na publicidade: regimes de interação e de sentido na construção e valoração de papéis sociais femininos

• Ano de defesa: 2015
• Autor(a) principal: Baggio, Adriana Tulio
• Orientador(a): Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de
• Tipo de documento: Tese
• Tipo de acesso: Acesso aberto
• Idioma: por
• Instituição de defesa: Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo
• Programa de Pós-Graduação: Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica
• Departamento: Comunicação
• País: BR
• Palavras-chave em Português: Semiótica discursiva; Publicidade; Revistas; Papéis sociais femininos; Uso da saia; Axiologia
• Palavras-chave em Inglês: Discursive semiotics; Advertising; Magazines; Women s social roles; Skirt wearing; Axiology
• Área do conhecimento CNPq: CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO
• Link de acesso: https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/4685

This work investigates the involvement of skirts in women s social roles construction and valuation in advertising in magazines. While research about the portrayal of women in advertising and about the social aspects of fashion is frequently seen, skirts are rarely shown in dissertations and their investigation as a particular object in communication research is unprecedented. Some contemporary social practices present discourses of restriction to skirts. If advertising expresses the values and ideologies of the society it is produced by, what kind of meaning effects from those discourses can be seen in ad pieces? What kind of interaction regimens do women s social roles articulate from skirt wearing? The first hypothesis was that some aspects of the intolerance to skirts are due to its figurativization of the feminine an opposite of the masculine in the gender cultural category. Skirt wearing could be more restricted or prescribed when femininity is not considered to be a desirable competence, which intervenes with meaning effects of the skirt in advertising. Historical, social and semiotic aspects of the skirt were analyzed, proving that there is an discourse of intolerance and a rating as more feminine or masculine configurations of that piece of clothing was proposed. As it was observed, the previous issues appear in simulacra of women s social roles in the print ads. Discursive semiotic has worked as the theoretical and methodological support, through its sociosemiotic branch (Greimas; Landowski; Oliveira), as well as Fashion, History, and Sociology concepts (Castilho, Bard, Crane, Hollander, Giddens). Print ad pieces published in 2011 and 2012 in Veja, Exame and Claudia magazines were selected as a corpus test. The quantitative analysis pre-selection (2679 issues) has tested the corpus representation and has shown the presence of the skirt in comparison to other pieces of clothing. Enunciates containing skirts, dresses, and pants integrate the semiotic corpus (353 issues). In that group, women s social roles, as well as the clothes that figurativize them and their appearance in magazines were identified. With the exception of less significant issues, 44 ads containing women in skirts were found 12% of the ads in the three magazines. Through the analysis of that set, a skirt typology, articulated with the acceptance or the non-acceptance of a feminine simulacrum, was reached, based on Landowski s interaction regimens. The skirt, while being a figure of the assuming of a feminine sexuality, marks the modes of its use in social roles in advertising. The feminine skirt is in the simulacrum complicity situations, and also in the situations where there is opposition to it. The masculine skirt figurativizes the simulacrum tolerance situation, while skirts in all of their configurations appear in the connivance situation