The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
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Publication Date: | 2025 |
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Format: | Article |
Language: | por |
Source: | Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
Download full: | https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538 |
Summary: | The general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911). |
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The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in BrazilEl Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, hito del traje social femenino en BrasilO Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, marco do traje social feminino no Brasilvestuário femininovestuário – históriavestuário - Modelagemwomen’s clothingclothing – historyclothing – pattern makingindumentaria femininaindumentaria – historiaindumentaria – patronajeThe general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911).El Catálogo general de la tienda Au Palais Royal 1911-1912, establecida en São Paulo para atender al buen gusto de los clientes afrancesados de la élite cafetalera paulista, presentó a sus clientas el Tailleur Parisiense, un traje con silueta bien definida que marcó la imagen de la mujer a principios del siglo 20, antes del estallido de la Primera Guerra Mundial. El artículo propone la investigación y recreación del traje, dentro de la temática del estudio de trajes históricos. El estudio sigue, como método, el sistema propuesto por Italiano y Viana (2024), que parte de estudios historiográficos, pasa por el análisis de registros iconográficos, búsquedas en manuales de modelado y confección del mismo período para fundamentar las etapas de recreación histórica. Como resultado, se espera que el estudio pueda contribuir a ampliar el conocimiento en el área, ofreciendo material relevante para estudiantes, figurinistas y otros investigadores y profesionales del sector de la vestimenta, sirviendo como referencia tanto para la creación de trajes actuales como históricos, destinados a exposiciones o producciones artísticas. Otras fuentes importantes son Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010) y Butterick (1911).O Catálogo geral da loja Au Palais Royal 1911-1912, estabelecida em São Paulo para atender ao bom gosto dos clientes afrancesados da elite paulista cafeeira, apresentou às suas clientes o Tailleur Parisiense, um traje com silhueta bem definida que marcou a imagem da mulher no início do século 20, antes da eclosão da Primeira Guerra. O artigo propõe a pesquisa e recriação de um traje, dentro da temática do estudo de trajes históricos. O estudo segue o sistema de trabalho proposto por Italiano e Viana (2024), que parte de estudos historiográficos, passa pela análise de registros iconográficos, buscas em manuais de modelagem e confecção do mesmo período para embasar as etapas de recriação histórica. Como resultado, espera-se que o estudo possa contribuir para ampliar o conhecimento na área, oferecendo material relevante para estudantes, figurinistas e outros pesquisadores e profissionais do setor de vestuário, servindo como referência tanto para a criação de trajes atuais quanto históricos, destinados a exposições ou produções artísticas. Outras fontes importantes são Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010) e Butterick (1911).Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2025-02-18info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2553810.5965/25944630912025e5538Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 9 n. 1 (2025): Dossiê 17: A musealização e a conservação de acervos têxteis: arte sacra e vestuário; 1 - 162594-463010.5965/10.5965.25944630912025e0001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538/18270Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italianohttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessMaia Pereira, PercilianaViana, FaustoItaliano, Isabel Cristina2025-03-28T12:19:08Zoai::article/25538Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2025-03-28T12:19:08Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false |
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil El Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, hito del traje social femenino en Brasil O Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, marco do traje social feminino no Brasil |
title |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
spellingShingle |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil Maia Pereira, Perciliana vestuário feminino vestuário – história vestuário - Modelagem women’s clothing clothing – history clothing – pattern making indumentaria feminina indumentaria – historia indumentaria – patronaje |
title_short |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
title_full |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
title_fullStr |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
title_full_unstemmed |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
title_sort |
The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil |
author |
Maia Pereira, Perciliana |
author_facet |
Maia Pereira, Perciliana Viana, Fausto Italiano, Isabel Cristina |
author_role |
author |
author2 |
Viana, Fausto Italiano, Isabel Cristina |
author2_role |
author author |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Maia Pereira, Perciliana Viana, Fausto Italiano, Isabel Cristina |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
vestuário feminino vestuário – história vestuário - Modelagem women’s clothing clothing – history clothing – pattern making indumentaria feminina indumentaria – historia indumentaria – patronaje |
topic |
vestuário feminino vestuário – história vestuário - Modelagem women’s clothing clothing – history clothing – pattern making indumentaria feminina indumentaria – historia indumentaria – patronaje |
description |
The general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911). |
publishDate |
2025 |
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2025-02-18 |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
format |
article |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538 10.5965/25944630912025e5538 |
url |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538 |
identifier_str_mv |
10.5965/25944630912025e5538 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538/18270 |
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italiano https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
rights_invalid_str_mv |
Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italiano https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 9 n. 1 (2025): Dossiê 17: A musealização e a conservação de acervos têxteis: arte sacra e vestuário; 1 - 16 2594-4630 10.5965/10.5965.25944630912025e0001 reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design instname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) instacron:UDESC |
instname_str |
Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
instacron_str |
UDESC |
institution |
UDESC |
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Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
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Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design |
repository.name.fl_str_mv |
Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC) |
repository.mail.fl_str_mv |
reamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br |
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1842257939235078144 |