The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil

Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Maia Pereira, Perciliana
Publication Date: 2025
Other Authors: Viana, Fausto, Italiano, Isabel Cristina
Format: Article
Language: por
Source: Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design
Download full: https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538
Summary: The general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911).
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spelling The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in BrazilEl Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, hito del traje social femenino en BrasilO Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, marco do traje social feminino no Brasilvestuário femininovestuário – históriavestuário - Modelagemwomen’s clothingclothing – historyclothing – pattern makingindumentaria femininaindumentaria – historiaindumentaria – patronajeThe general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911).El Catálogo general de la tienda Au Palais Royal 1911-1912, establecida en São Paulo para atender al buen gusto de los clientes afrancesados de la élite cafetalera paulista, presentó a sus clientas el Tailleur Parisiense, un traje con silueta bien definida que marcó la imagen de la mujer a principios del siglo 20, antes del estallido de la Primera Guerra Mundial. El artículo propone la investigación y recreación del traje, dentro de la temática del estudio de trajes históricos. El estudio sigue, como método, el sistema propuesto por Italiano y Viana (2024), que parte de estudios historiográficos, pasa por el análisis de registros iconográficos, búsquedas en manuales de modelado y confección del mismo período para fundamentar las etapas de recreación histórica. Como resultado, se espera que el estudio pueda contribuir a ampliar el conocimiento en el área, ofreciendo material relevante para estudiantes, figurinistas y otros investigadores y profesionales del sector de la vestimenta, sirviendo como referencia tanto para la creación de trajes actuales como históricos, destinados a exposiciones o producciones artísticas. Otras fuentes importantes son Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010) y Butterick (1911).O Catálogo geral da loja Au Palais Royal 1911-1912, estabelecida em São Paulo para atender ao bom gosto dos clientes afrancesados da elite paulista cafeeira, apresentou às suas clientes o Tailleur Parisiense, um traje com silhueta bem definida que marcou a imagem da mulher no início do século 20, antes da eclosão da Primeira Guerra. O artigo propõe a pesquisa e recriação de um traje, dentro da temática do estudo de trajes históricos. O estudo segue o sistema de trabalho proposto por Italiano e Viana (2024), que parte de estudos historiográficos, passa pela análise de registros iconográficos, buscas em manuais de modelagem e confecção do mesmo período para embasar as etapas de recriação histórica. Como resultado, espera-se que o estudo possa contribuir para ampliar o conhecimento na área, oferecendo material relevante para estudantes, figurinistas e outros pesquisadores e profissionais do setor de vestuário, servindo como referência tanto para a criação de trajes atuais quanto históricos, destinados a exposições ou produções artísticas. Outras fontes importantes são Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010) e Butterick (1911).Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina2025-02-18info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/2553810.5965/25944630912025e5538Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 9 n. 1 (2025): Dossiê 17: A musealização e a conservação de acervos têxteis: arte sacra e vestuário; 1 - 162594-463010.5965/10.5965.25944630912025e0001reponame:Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Designinstname:Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)instacron:UDESCporhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538/18270Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italianohttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.ptinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessMaia Pereira, PercilianaViana, FaustoItaliano, Isabel Cristina2025-03-28T12:19:08Zoai::article/25538Revistahttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/indexPUBhttps://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/Ensinarmode/oaireamd.ceart@udesc.br || portal.periodicos@udesc.br2594-46302594-4630opendoar:2025-03-28T12:19:08Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design - Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC)false
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
El Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, hito del traje social femenino en Brasil
O Tailleur Parisiense de 1911, marco do traje social feminino no Brasil
title The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
spellingShingle The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
Maia Pereira, Perciliana
vestuário feminino
vestuário – história
vestuário - Modelagem
women’s clothing
clothing – history
clothing – pattern making
indumentaria feminina
indumentaria – historia
indumentaria – patronaje
title_short The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
title_full The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
title_fullStr The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
title_full_unstemmed The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
title_sort The Parisian Tailleur from 1911, a milestone in Women's Social Attire in Brazil
author Maia Pereira, Perciliana
author_facet Maia Pereira, Perciliana
Viana, Fausto
Italiano, Isabel Cristina
author_role author
author2 Viana, Fausto
Italiano, Isabel Cristina
author2_role author
author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Maia Pereira, Perciliana
Viana, Fausto
Italiano, Isabel Cristina
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv vestuário feminino
vestuário – história
vestuário - Modelagem
women’s clothing
clothing – history
clothing – pattern making
indumentaria feminina
indumentaria – historia
indumentaria – patronaje
topic vestuário feminino
vestuário – história
vestuário - Modelagem
women’s clothing
clothing – history
clothing – pattern making
indumentaria feminina
indumentaria – historia
indumentaria – patronaje
description The general catalogue of the Au Palais Royal store from 1911-1912, established in São Paulo, to cater to the refined tastes of the Frenchified clientele of the coffee-producing São Paulo elite, introduced its customers to the Parisian Tailleur, a garment with a well-defined silhouette that shaped the image of women at the beginning of the 20th century, prior to the outbreak of World War I. The article proposes research and recreation of a garment within the framework of historical costume studies. The study follows, as its method, the system proposed by Italiano and Viana (2024), which begins with historiographical research, proceeds through the analysis of iconographic records, and includes searches in pattern-making and garment construction manuals from the same period to support the stages of historical recreation. As a result, the study is expected to contribute to expanding knowledge in the field, offering relevant material for students, costume designers, and other researchers and professionals in the clothing sector. It aims to serve as a reference for both contemporary and historical garment creation, intended for exhibitions or artistic productions. Other important sources include Bonadio (2007), Boucher (2010), and Butterick (1911).
publishDate 2025
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2025-02-18
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dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538
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url https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538
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dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv por
language por
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25538/18270
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italiano
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv Copyright (c) 2025 Perciliana Maia Pereira, Fausto Viana, Isabel Cristina Italiano
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.pt
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design; v. 9 n. 1 (2025): Dossiê 17: A musealização e a conservação de acervos têxteis: arte sacra e vestuário; 1 - 16
2594-4630
10.5965/10.5965.25944630912025e0001
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