Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autor(a) principal: Mendes, D.
Data de Publicação: 2016
Outros Autores: Pires Silva, A., Fortunato, A. B., Pinto, J. P.
Idioma: eng
Título da fonte: Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)
Texto Completo: http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1008348
Resumo: Non-linear wave-wave interactions between sea-swell waves (0.5 < f < 0.04 Hz) and infragravity waves (0.04 < f < 0.004 Hz) are studied in detail from field data using bispectral analysis. This methodology allowed to understand the direction and magnitude of the non-linear energy transfers within the spectrum. Field measurements of pressure data were collected at S. Jacinto beach during a full tidal cycle on a cross-shore transect at the subtidal and intertidal zone. Bispectral estimates showed triad interactions between two sea-swell waves and one infra-gravity wave at the surf zone. The non-linear transfers were out of phase which indicates the presence of bound waves. These results evidenced the presence of energy transfers from infra-gravity to sea-swell band where the sea-swell waves are more energetic, during shoaling and breaking.
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spelling Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beachInfra-gravity wavesNon-linear wave-wave interactionsBispectral analysisWave observationsNon-linear wave-wave interactions between sea-swell waves (0.5 < f < 0.04 Hz) and infragravity waves (0.04 < f < 0.004 Hz) are studied in detail from field data using bispectral analysis. This methodology allowed to understand the direction and magnitude of the non-linear energy transfers within the spectrum. Field measurements of pressure data were collected at S. Jacinto beach during a full tidal cycle on a cross-shore transect at the subtidal and intertidal zone. Bispectral estimates showed triad interactions between two sea-swell waves and one infra-gravity wave at the surf zone. The non-linear transfers were out of phase which indicates the presence of bound waves. These results evidenced the presence of energy transfers from infra-gravity to sea-swell band where the sea-swell waves are more energetic, during shoaling and breaking.Instituto Hidrográfico2016-07-14T16:38:06Z2017-04-13T10:12:14Z2016-06-01T00:00:00Z2016-06conference objectinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionapplication/pdfapplication/pdfhttp://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1008348engMendes, D.Pires Silva, A.Fortunato, A. B.Pinto, J. P.info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessreponame:Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)instname:FCCN, serviços digitais da FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologiainstacron:RCAAP2025-05-17T03:00:12Zoai:localhost:123456789/1008348Portal AgregadorONGhttps://www.rcaap.pt/oai/openaireinfo@rcaap.ptopendoar:https://opendoar.ac.uk/repository/71602025-05-29T07:33:54.231514Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP) - FCCN, serviços digitais da FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologiafalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
title Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
spellingShingle Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
Mendes, D.
Infra-gravity waves
Non-linear wave-wave interactions
Bispectral analysis
Wave observations
title_short Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
title_full Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
title_fullStr Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
title_full_unstemmed Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
title_sort Non-linear infra-gravity and sea-swell wave-wave interactions at S. Jacinto beach
author Mendes, D.
author_facet Mendes, D.
Pires Silva, A.
Fortunato, A. B.
Pinto, J. P.
author_role author
author2 Pires Silva, A.
Fortunato, A. B.
Pinto, J. P.
author2_role author
author
author
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv Mendes, D.
Pires Silva, A.
Fortunato, A. B.
Pinto, J. P.
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv Infra-gravity waves
Non-linear wave-wave interactions
Bispectral analysis
Wave observations
topic Infra-gravity waves
Non-linear wave-wave interactions
Bispectral analysis
Wave observations
description Non-linear wave-wave interactions between sea-swell waves (0.5 < f < 0.04 Hz) and infragravity waves (0.04 < f < 0.004 Hz) are studied in detail from field data using bispectral analysis. This methodology allowed to understand the direction and magnitude of the non-linear energy transfers within the spectrum. Field measurements of pressure data were collected at S. Jacinto beach during a full tidal cycle on a cross-shore transect at the subtidal and intertidal zone. Bispectral estimates showed triad interactions between two sea-swell waves and one infra-gravity wave at the surf zone. The non-linear transfers were out of phase which indicates the presence of bound waves. These results evidenced the presence of energy transfers from infra-gravity to sea-swell band where the sea-swell waves are more energetic, during shoaling and breaking.
publishDate 2016
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2016-07-14T16:38:06Z
2016-06-01T00:00:00Z
2016-06
2017-04-13T10:12:14Z
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv conference object
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1008348
url http://repositorio.lnec.pt:8080/jspui/handle/123456789/1008348
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Instituto Hidrográfico
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Instituto Hidrográfico
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)
instname:FCCN, serviços digitais da FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
instacron:RCAAP
instname_str FCCN, serviços digitais da FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
instacron_str RCAAP
institution RCAAP
reponame_str Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)
collection Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP) - FCCN, serviços digitais da FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
repository.mail.fl_str_mv info@rcaap.pt
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