Microencapsulation of mushroom extracts for cosmeceutical design

• Main Author: Taofiq, Oludemi
• Publication Date: 2017
• Other Authors: Heleno, Sandrina A., Barros, Lillian, Calhelha, Ricardo C., Alves, Maria José, Fernandes, Isabel P., González-Paramás, Ana María, Barreiro, M.F., Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.
• Language: eng
• Source: Repositórios Científicos de Acesso Aberto de Portugal (RCAAP)
• Download full: http://hdl.handle.net/10198/14550
• topic: Research subject categories; Technology

The global cosmetic industry is constantly in search for bio based ingredients with less toxic effects but providing multifunctional properties, maintaining the structure and function of the skin. This will, thereby, reduce the presence of synthetic ingredients in personal care products (Taofiq, 2017). Cosmeceuticals are the newest trend in the design of personal care products, presenting medical drug-like benefits through the supply of appropriate ingredients for the maintenance of a healthy skin. They include bioactive compounds such as phytonutrients, microbial metabolites, minerals, vitamins and animal proteins (Taofiq, 2016a). Mushrooms are widely consumed due to their rich nutritional composition with recognized health promoting benefits. They contain several bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides, phenolics, terpenoids, nucleotides, steroids, fatty acids, proteins and glycol-peptides that are responsible for their antioxidant, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial anti-tyrosinase and other biological activities. Because of all the above-mentioned properties, there is an increasing interest in incorporating mushroom extracts and/or their isolated compounds in cosmetic formulations, expecting positive benefits on the skin. These extracts/compounds can act either as antioxidants, preservatives or as hyperpigmentation correcting agents (Taofiq, 2016a). In a general way, the use of natural-derived extracts, including mushroom extracts, as cosmeceutical ingredients can present restrictions related with the lack of stability and ease degradation of some of their metabolites. To overcome these challenges, microencapsulation techniques have been utilised taking advantage of the protection conferred by polymeric materials, particularly natural-derived and biodegradable ones. This ensures protection against oxidation and degradation, controlled or target oriented release, guaranteeing that the bioactives effectively cross the biological membranes. The specific objective of the present work was to obtain mushroom extracts-based ingredients for cosmeceutical applications. Soxhlet ethanolic extracts were prepared from Agaricus bisporus (J.E.Lange) Imbach (A) and Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq. ex Fr.) P.Kumm (P), thereafter chemically characterised in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol contents, and screened for their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-tyrosinase activities. The extracts were then microencapsulated in calcium alginate particles by an atomization/coagulation technique. The produced microparticles were characterised (morphology, particle size, encapsulation efficiency (EE%)) for subsequent incorporation in a base cosmetic cream. The developed formulations were evaluated for their bioactive properties, pH and colour evolution over a 6 months’ period to ascertain the stability of the bioactives and monitor their in vitro release behaviour. The composition of the bioactive compounds in the creams was also monitored by HPLC.